If it's now 6 amp hours, it is a problem. If the the OP was getting 10 amp hours a year ago, and he's now getting, say, 8 amp hours, that might be a problem. If you simply displayed the voltage and the amp hours consumed on a display, or the main display, everything would be clear. Wouldn't it be nice to know, right now, the same capacity? Yeah, it's cold, and maybe that has an effect, but mostly it would be nice to know precisely what the battery holds. Wouldn't it be nice if the original poster knew, a year ago, he had exactly xx amp hours in his battery. Why use 'bars' when you could have a precise measurement, anyway? I can see exactly how many amp hours I have consumed, and how much is left. I can watch the voltage drop, and know when the battery is getting run down during a ride. I know what the battery really holds (around 15 ah, actually) and I'd know if I was losing capacity, month after month. I ride with an amp hour meter and voltmeter. So the LCD 'throws a lot of rider', but you keep it? Why? You removed 'real' information from the system? I bought a $260 Lifepo battery from China, rated 15 ah. If an owner has a 10 amp hour battery, an amp hour meter will simply show the amps that are consumed over time, without regard for whether it is the BMS, the lights, or a satellite dish. BTW, the 2015/16 tests are not going to be the same, so this link is for your year model Dash. Remember on any test where the rear wheel may turn, lift that wheel OFF the Ground so you don't rip any wires. If your battery can't power you through these tests, then use my suggestion and plug in the charger to the battery & outlet and do this. Let me know via PM if you need additional help. Currie Tech is good at handling these issues promptly. Of course, we got an invalid reading on the throttle test since the controller doesn't allow the throttle to engage with the charger plugged in. I was able to run the diags via the console with the charger plugged into the wall to provide power, since the battery voltage was so low that the bike would power up for about 2 seconds and then go into an error mode. Your battery is most likely still under warranty so get hold of the shop you bought it from and they can run the diags for you to see what the actual battery capacity is and to check the charger's output. Oddly enough, we're processing a warranty claim for a similar issue on a 2014 Dash right now. But if not, then I am a little weary of pulling the trigger and spending several hundred dollars on another you probably have a problem with some cells within the battery itself. If it is only peculiar to me, then maybe I will buy another replacement battery eventually. I was just wondering if anyone else was experiencing this problem. But this weaker battery that originally came with the bike really limits me now from doing that. I have an extra battery, as I like to go on 40 to 50 mile trips. These things are just too expensive for this kind of thing to keep happening. It seems to me that I should be getting much more life out of this battery than I have. And at several hundred dollars a pop it isn’t something that I am too keen on dishing out every year. It has just surpassed its one year warranty. I would not think that this battery would be in need of replacing after only one year of service. I have charged this battery over the past year only once a week, or a little over 52 times. I use to get about 18 miles using assist levels 1-3, more if just using level 1. Has anyone experienced seeing only 4 bars after charging their battery. I have a 2014 E3 Dash that I purchased in August of 2014.
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